Retail Store

Blue Ribbon Pools Expands in Port Orange Opening Their Outdoor Lifestyle Showroom
May 2018 – After being in the pool business serving Volusia, Flagler and surrounding areas for nearly two decades, Maurice Bushroe decided it was time to expand opening a flagship outdoor lifestyle showroom in Port Orange located at 3670 S. Ridgewood Avenue. Under the management of Rebecca Mitchum who was named the General Manager for Sales & Marketing eighteen months ago. Rebecca joined the Blue Ribbon’s Team after being an Assistant Division Manager for Sentry Management Group. She has lived in the area since she was five years old.

This new state-of-the-art outdoor lifestyle showroom will be a community resource for residents and commercial use. Being a “one-stop-shop”for all things outdoor for recreation or entertaining in your background, Blue Ribbon Pools will be open to the public Monday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Service through Blue Ribbon Pools will remain under their 24/7/365 policy.

Prior to acquiring Blue Ribbon Pools 16 years ago, Maurice Bushroe had a 22-year career in Fortune 500 sales and executive management. A Florida Certified Commercial Pool/Spa Contractor, Bushroe has been a member of several local organizations and serves as the Florida Swimming Pool Association State Board Treasurer. Blue Ribbon Pools legacy business is a fully integrated pool building, remodeling and repair that conducts more than 900 service stops weekly. The team is excited to now serve the community even more by offering a pool showroom and store that will be beneficial to residential and commercial clients alike.

Kevin Cassily, Store Manager
386-366-9000 Ext 303

Rebecca Mitchum, GM Sales & Marketing
386-366-9000 Ext 305

Maurice Bushroe, President
386-366-9000 Ext 104

Leak Detection

Don’t LEAK Out! Blue Ribbon Pools is available 24/7 for your pools’ leaks, repair or replacement.

My pool seems to be losing water, what should I do?

  • Check for leaks at the pool equipment pad. A normal equipment pad is completely dry all the time.
  • Inspect the interior of the pool or spa for cracks. Pools and spas sometimes have a tendency to shift due to soil conditions which can lead to fractures in the vessels.
  • Check the backwash line for water loss. Sometimes the valve seat inside the backwash valve can become loose which will cause water to exit the system through the backwash line.
  • Check your water bill. If you see an increase in your water usage this may be an indicator to a underground leak.

Why did my pool light stop working?

There are several possible reasons the pool or spa light doesn’t work.

  • The bulb is burnt out and the bulb and lens gasket should be replaced.
  • The ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protecting the light circuit has tripped and needs to be reset.
  • The light is activated with a timer or a photocell that has failed.
  • The light circuit at the breaker panel has tripped and needs to be reset.

Why isn’t my heater coming on?

All pool heaters have a series of safety switches inside that monitor if it’s okay for the heater to turn on. There is a pressure switch that senses if there is water coursing through the heater (heater MUST only engage if there is water flowing through the system). There are switches that sense if the heater is ‘too hot’ that will keep a heater from turning on. Sometimes the thermostat needs to be adjusted ‘higher’ to create a ‘demand for heat’. A dirty filter can prevent adequate water pressure from reaching the heater which will keep the heater from firing. The heater’s gas valve may be in the ‘off’ position. Please note that we provide instruction on lighting ‘standing pilot’ heaters in the event the pilot light has blown out in the heater. There are quite a few reasons that a heater may not fire, and if the problem involves mechanical repairs, we recommend that the unit be serviced by a trained mechanic. Please call us to schedule a inspection.

What happens when my pool pump hums but won’t start?

Electrical repairs can be hazardous or fatal if done improperly – always refer electrical repairs to a professional. There are several reasons a pump won’t ‘spin’, they are:

  • The starting capacitor has failed.
  • The start switch has failed or is fouled.
  • A damaged pump seal has allowed water into the motor which has caused the bearings to fail.
  • The stator or armature windings have burnt out
  • The pump impeller is bound and can’t spin.

My pool pump is very noisy, is it time to replace it?

There are several reasons a pump can be noisy and each poses a different repair aspect. When air is introduced into a pump it is called cavitation. Sometimes air is introduced because of a poor hydraulic design in the plumbing. Most of the time, air is introduced due to a leak in the pipes that lead into the suction side of the pump. All pumps have two ‘ball bearing’ assemblies, one at the front of the motor and one at the back. The most common bearing failure is due to a leaking seal which allows water to enter the motor through the front bearing. Bearing failures usually start as a ‘whine’ and quickly develop into a loud grinding noise, or an all out ‘screaming’ sound. As a motor repair or replacement is fairly technical, we recommend you call us for a service appointment to determine and fix the source of the noise.

When should I backwash my filter?

The industry standard for backwashing is when the filter gauge shows a pressure that is ten pounds higher than a ‘clean’ pressure. All filters work by forcing water through a porous media which traps the larger particles from the water. When the filter media is clean, the water passes easily through and the gauge pressure is lower. As debris is caught in the media it is harder to push the water through the filter which makes the gauge pressure higher. When enough debris is in the filter to clog it up by ten pounds, it’s time to backwash. Call us for complete backwash instructions for your filter or we’ll be glad to schedule a visit to insure your equipment is optimal.

How often should my pool water chemistry be tested?

Residential customers should test the water and make adjustments NO LESS than once a week (the more often, the better). The sanitizer in a swimming pool makes it safe for the swimmers, the pH and other chemical balances keep the pool system in good shape.

Why is my pool green?

First, determine if the water is green or the surface of the pool. If the water is green, there are three possibilities:

  • It’s a green tint, generally clear but green: Your water chemistry out of balance and your chlorine or bromine sanitizer is probably low.  Remove any swimmers from the pool and add chlorine or shock with the pump running. The water should lose the green tint within two hours.
  • It’s cloudy green: You have a high level of phosphates or stabilizer in the pool. These two issues are very different and have different treatments, but both problems are caused by chlorine inhibitors.  No matter how much chlorine or algaecide you add, the water won’t clear. Call Blue Ribbon Pools for advice and help at 386-366-9000.
  • It’s a swamp: The chemistry is wrong, and the pump / filter system isn’t functioning properly. DO NOT DRAIN THE POOL – it might pop out of the ground. Call Blue Ribbon Pools for advice and help at 386-366-9000.

If the surface has green or yellow algae, it’s likely that either the pump / filter system isn’t functioning properly, or the water chemistry is out of balance.

  • Check your chemicals and adjust the chlorine and ph as indicated.
  • Check the pump – make sure it’s running at least 8 hours per day in the summer and four hours in the winter.
  • Clean the filter- either by backwashing (if it’s a DE or sand filter) or by cleaning the filter element (if it’s a cartridge filter).
  • Brush the sides and floor of the pool to put the algae into the water. Run the filter for 24 hours, and then clean the filter again.
  • Call Blue Ribbon Pools at 386-366-9000 if this sides have algae more than two days in a row.