- Check for leaks at the pool equipment pad. A normal equipment pad is completely dry all the time.
- Inspect the interior of the pool or spa for cracks. Pools and spas sometimes have a tendency to shift due to soil conditions which can lead to fractures in the vessels.
- Check the backwash line for water loss. Sometimes the valve seat inside the backwash valve can become loose which will cause water to exit the system through the backwash line.
- Check your water bill. If you see an increase in your water usage this may be an indicator to a underground leak.
There are several possible reasons the pool or spa light doesn’t work.
- The bulb is burnt out and the bulb and lens gasket should be replaced.
- The ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protecting the light circuit has tripped and needs to be reset.
- The light is activated with a timer or a photocell that has failed.
- The light circuit at the breaker panel has tripped and needs to be reset.
All pool heaters have a series of safety switches inside that monitor if it’s okay for the heater to turn on. There is a pressure switch that senses if there is water coursing through the heater (heater MUST only engage if there is water flowing through the system). There are switches that sense if the heater is ‘too hot’ that will keep a heater from turning on. Sometimes the thermostat needs to be adjusted ‘higher’ to create a ‘demand for heat’. A dirty filter can prevent adequate water pressure from reaching the heater which will keep the heater from firing. The heater’s gas valve may be in the ‘off’ position. Please note that we provide instruction on lighting ‘standing pilot’ heaters in the event the pilot light has blown out in the heater. There are quite a few reasons that a heater may not fire, and if the problem involves mechanical repairs, we recommend that the unit be serviced by a trained mechanic. Please call us to schedule a inspection.
Electrical repairs can be hazardous or fatal if done improperly – always refer electrical repairs to a professional. There are several reasons a pump won’t ‘spin’, they are:
- The starting capacitor has failed.
- The start switch has failed or is fouled.
- A damaged pump seal has allowed water into the motor which has caused the bearings to fail.
- The stator or armature windings have burnt out
- The pump impeller is bound and can’t spin.
There are several reasons a pump can be noisy and each poses a different repair aspect. When air is introduced into a pump it is called cavitation. Sometimes air is introduced because of a poor hydraulic design in the plumbing. Most of the time, air is introduced due to a leak in the pipes that lead into the suction side of the pump. All pumps have two ‘ball bearing’ assemblies, one at the front of the motor and one at the back. The most common bearing failure is due to a leaking seal which allows water to enter the motor through the front bearing. Bearing failures usually start as a ‘whine’ and quickly develop into a loud grinding noise, or an all out ‘screaming’ sound. As a motor repair or replacement is fairly technical, we recommend you call us for a service appointment to determine and fix the source of the noise.
The industry standard for backwashing is when the filter gauge shows a pressure that is ten pounds higher than a ‘clean’ pressure. All filters work by forcing water through a porous media which traps the larger particles from the water. When the filter media is clean, the water passes easily through and the gauge pressure is lower. As debris is caught in the media it is harder to push the water through the filter which makes the gauge pressure higher. When enough debris is in the filter to clog it up by ten pounds, it’s time to backwash. Call us for complete backwash instructions for your filter or we’ll be glad to schedule a visit to insure your equipment is optimal.
Residential customers should test the water and make adjustments NO LESS than once a week (the more often, the better). The sanitizer in a swimming pool makes it safe for the swimmers, the pH and other chemical balances keep the pool system in good shape.
First, determine if the water is green or the surface of the pool. If the water is green, there are three possibilities:
- It’s a green tint, generally clear but green: Your water chemistry out of balance and your chlorine or bromine sanitizer is probably low. Remove any swimmers from the pool and add chlorine or shock with the pump running. The water should lose the green tint within two hours.
- It’s cloudy green: You have a high level of phosphates or stabilizer in the pool. These two issues are very different and have different treatments, but both problems are caused by chlorine inhibitors. No matter how much chlorine or algaecide you add, the water won’t clear. Call Blue Ribbon Pools for advice and help at 386-366-9000.
- It’s a swamp: The chemistry is wrong, and the pump / filter system isn’t functioning properly. DO NOT DRAIN THE POOL – it might pop out of the ground. Call Blue Ribbon Pools for advice and help at 386-366-9000.
If the surface has green or yellow algae, it’s likely that either the pump / filter system isn’t functioning properly, or the water chemistry is out of balance.
- Check your chemicals and adjust the chlorine and ph as indicated.
- Check the pump – make sure it’s running at least 8 hours per day in the summer and four hours in the winter.
- Clean the filter- either by backwashing (if it’s a DE or sand filter) or by cleaning the filter element (if it’s a cartridge filter).
- Brush the sides and floor of the pool to put the algae into the water. Run the filter for 24 hours, and then clean the filter again.
- Call Blue Ribbon Pools at 386-366-9000 if this sides have algae more than two days in a row.
Pool water clarity is dependent on two things: the effectiveness of the filter and the chemical balance in the pool. The pool’s filter provides 85% of the water clarity and the chemicals used to treat a pool add the other 15%. Chemicals or filters alone cannot keep a pool clear. If the filter media is old it may need replacing. If the pool ‘balance’ is wrong it needs fixing. The problem usually associated with a cloudy pool is a filter media filter. A D.E. filter may need a manual cleaning, a sand filter may need backwashing or replacement of the sand, a cartridge filter usually always requires replacement of the cartridges. If the pool water chemistry is okay, it’s time to perform maintenance on the filter.
Blue Ribbon Pools Storm Service Guidelines
- Our priority is the safety of our client, their guests, and our employees – we will not compromise safety in any circumstance.
- Service may be suspended due to the proximity of high winds, lightning or other threatening conditions.
- The client is responsible for anyone using their pool, spa, or pool deck during a storm. We use the beach patrol and lifeguards as indicators of hazardous conditions – when they clear the beach, you must clear the pool deck.
- If you choose to put pool furniture or other items in the pool, you are responsible for removing them.
- If you lower the water level before or after a storm, be very careful NOT TO DRAIN THE POOL. The high water conditional surrounding a storm can cause your pool to POP – come out of the ground – and the repair cost is very high.
- We will make every effort to maintain DOH – mandated water conditions during a storm. We make our regular visits if possible to adjust water chemistry and maintain water safety and clarity.
- When conditions permit, we will resume service on our regular schedule. We cannot guarantee that your pool will be clear of storm debris on your regular service day. We will make every effort to visit each property within three days of a storm to begin cleanup (if there is no loss of electrical service).
- In the event of a storm that causes the loss of electrical service at your property we will attempt to use chemicals to maintain sanitary water in your pool or spa. Of course, we cannot predict when your pool / spa will be ready for use.
- We will help you plan for the restoration of service with the support of our entire team, local safety officials, and the Health Department. Please contact us at 386-366-9000 or www.blueribbonpools.com